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Intermediate

Creams & Lotions, Emulsions Explained

Understand oil and water phases, emulsifiers and preservation so your creams stay stable and safe.

18 lessons, about 4 hours

$99

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What's inside

01Emulsion Science6 lessons
  1. 1

    What an emulsion is

    Explain how an emulsion works and why it separates. You'll cover oil-in-water (lotions) vs water-in-oil (heavier creams) and why oil and water separate and what stabilises them.

    9 min

  2. 2

    The three phases

    Identify the water, oil and cool-down phases in any formula.

    10 min

  3. 3

    Emulsifiers explained

    Pick an emulsifier for your cream. You'll cover nature-derived options: Olivem 1000, glyceryl stearate with a co-emulsifier, polyglyceryl esters and how HLB (hydrophilic-lipophilic balance) matches oils to emulsifiers.

    12 min

  4. 4

    Stabilisers and thickeners

    Control viscosity and feel. You'll cover fatty alcohols (cetyl alcohol 1 to 3%) add body and gums such as xanthan add water-phase thickness.

    11 min

  5. 5

    Equipment for emulsions

    Equip a safe emulsion workspace. You'll cover stick blender vs mixer vs homogeniser and heat-safe glass beakers and a water bath.

    10 min

  6. 6

    Reading and writing formulas in percentages

    Write formulas as percentages so you can scale any batch.

    13 min

02Your First Creams6 lessons
  1. 7

    Heating and holding

    Heat and hold phases correctly. You'll cover heat both phases to 70 to 75 degrees C and hold 20 minutes to reduce microbes.

    10 min

  2. 8

    Make a basic face cream

    Make a stable face cream. You'll cover example: water 70%, oil phase 22%, emulsifier 5%, humectant 2%, preservative 1% and blend 3 minutes, cool while stirring.

    20 min

  3. 9

    Make a light lotion

    Make a pump-bottle lotion. You'll cover lower oil phase around 15% and use a gum for pump viscosity.

    18 min

  4. 10

    Make a rich night cream

    Make a richer, butter-based cream. You'll cover butters and heavier oils up to 25% oil phase and add cetyl alcohol for glide.

    18 min

  5. 11

    Make a body lotion

    Scale to a larger batch. You'll cover scale to 500 g and keep fragrance-free or follow safe EU fragrance limits.

    16 min

  6. 12

    Make a cleansing milk

    Make a light cleansing emulsion. You'll cover light oil phase (10 to 15%) and check rinse-off performance.

    14 min

03Preservation and Safety6 lessons
  1. 13

    Why preservation is essential

    Understand why preservation is required. You'll cover bacteria, yeast and mould in water-containing products and real risks: eye infections, skin infections.

    11 min

  2. 14

    Choosing a broad-spectrum preservative

    Choose and dose a preservative. You'll cover check the EU Annex V list for permitted preservatives and maximum concentrations and match pH range and emulsifier compatibility.

    14 min

  3. 15

    Antioxidants and chelators

    Slow rancidity. You'll cover vitamin E (tocopherol) at 0.5 to 1% in oils and rosemary extract as a supporting antioxidant.

    9 min

  4. 16

    Testing your own products

    Run basic checks and know their limits. You'll cover home checks: smell, colour, texture, pH and what home checks cannot detect: contamination.

    12 min

  5. 17

    Labeling creams correctly

    Label to EU rules. You'll cover INCI names, listed in descending order and batch number, best-before or PAO symbol.

    11 min

  6. 18

    Handling allergens and sensitivities

    Reduce allergy risk. You'll cover common allergens: nut oils, beeswax, propolis, some essential oils and patch test protocol and record keeping.

    10 min